Team Strange
HPV Racing History - Team Strange

Dana Barlow writes: I designed and built 'bents for fun in the 1970's & 80's. I am the designer and builder of IHPVA "Team Strange" from the 1980's, and built 3 streamliners during spare time at my old race car shop "RPM Racing".

I eventually had to stop all HPV racing and building as it got too busy at work. I raced all kinds of cars for 35+ years. It's been about 20 years since I last did any HPV stuff. I just retired about 1.5 years ago and I have only recently acquired a little time to myself again. 

HPV Streamliners:
Streamliner 1 was "Strange One", a 61 lb. two-wheeled lowracer-based streamliner that was raced at Indy in 1984 and 1985. It went 50.479mph and had a landing gear a bit like what is described on the WISIL site.

Streamliner 2 was "Too Strange", a 57lb. trike based streamliner that was raced at Indy in 1985. It went 51.456mph, and had an adjustable ride height to compensate for banked tracks and rough roads. 

Streamliner 3 was "Strange Try." I started on it, but then put it aside, as race car shop stuff got to be too much. 

"Too Strange" circa 1985 & 1986.

Anything HPV at 50+mph back then (1980's) was a big deal. I did present many talks about design and building to HPV groups back then and I was always thinking that someone would do some documentation. With all the tape recordings and notes many of the guys took while I was talking and the photos they shot, I would not need to! I always hated putting things down on paper other than my design drawings, some were on napkins and scrap paper of varying kinds. Design was fun time for me so I didn't need all kinds of nice drawings and stuff like I would need for a customer. The design notes, like all stuff that ends up getting moved and moved some more, eventually ended up getting trashed.  

1985 Indy IHPVA Championships
I remember Gardner Martin being very helpful to our team, as he was to everyone. After finding out that "Too Strange" was going to race at the Velodrome with the "Gold Rush", he told me that he had never seen any trike hold the track well, and that they could slide out or flip, so be careful! 

During the race, "Too Strange" was pacing the Gold Rush a half lap back. This continued until two laps before the end of the run, when our rider, Dean, tried to up-shift for extra speed. We had planned to stay even with Gold Rush if Dean could manage it (something few ever could do with Freddy), then, with two laps to go, he would pull a max effort sprint to finish. Unfortunately, the up-shift made the chain jump off the crossover gear. I hadn't put guides on it (my mistake, not Deans) because it had never come off before, but the corner speed was high and was loading the chain to the outside, so we didn't finish. 

I was really down about that, but Gardner came over as soon as he was free and started going on and on about how he had never seen a trike go like that!! What had I done? He certainly made my mistake not feel so bad. He was one of the good guys. I told him that my trike design had adjustments to the ride height on the front wheels to allow it to run level on a crowned road or velodrome. It could be set to lean to the left side with the right side high for the velodrome. When it was on the banking it looked almost like it was the same height side to side, but when you looked at it on the flat infield you could see the one side was obviously higher. 

We were faster then any other three wheeler there and 57lbs. was very light for a three wheel streamliner.

Racing at Different Altitudes
The biggest hold back is getting the air to let you go over 20mph. Maybe it's because I have always lived in Florida and been racing SCCA & NASCAR and NHRA, but I feel that its wrong to match up any HPV record run at over 400 ft above sea level (where the air is thinner) with any of the lower level runs. Racing big cars at many tracks all over the country shows a good crew chief that the carburetor jets need changing every 100 ft up for the thinner air, just to make the motor run best. Air temperature changes the density of the air, as well as varying the amount of oxygen for a human motor. What do you think all that is doing to the air around your HPV? 

Bent Aluminum Body
I did not use an English Wheel on the aluminum bodies, but everyone asked if I had! I did have one in the race car shop for making custom parts and I do know how to use one, but if you crash that kind of body, you can not fix it until you get back to the shop. When racing anything, you always try to design it so you can fix it at the race track, because crashing is a given. My HPV design stuff was off-time fun at the shop for me, and I had fun thinking up ways to do it all in fewer hours build time. Because of that, the bodies were done with one-plane bends. You have to look close and think hard to see what was done! Most think one-plane bends cannot be made into a nice aero shape like that, so they give up and do lots of fiberglass work instead of lots of thinking (HA!). Still, the flow was pretty good, maybe off a little from if we had used compound curves in the side panels. The nose and bubble do allow a much smoother airflow into the flatter side panels.

Strange Landing Gear
Most two wheeled streamliners had no landing gear back then, and the very few I did see either had flaps to put the feet on the ground or heavy, wheeled contraptions on both sides. Nearly all the streamliners just had someone hold them up to take off and tried to grab them when stopping. I did the hold to start, then grab it before it falls over bit too, for the all-out speed runs. I taped up the gear hole for maximum smooth airflow, and pulled out the landing gear wheel and arm for even less weight, but found that the little aero and weight savings did not give us anything. We found out the hard way that having no landing gear could cost much more in a crashed body for the next run. After a few crashes in 1984 we found it was smarter and easier to have a landing gear (raced with landing gear in 1985) than to keep fixing the body. 

My landing gear was made of box tubes that slid one into the other. The outside tube was mounted to the frame. Both tubes on my own landing gear were drilled full of holes to keep them light. I made the same landing gear in 1985 for Terry Hreno's "Moby 3B" (now raced by John Simon). It used a spring to retract, and 60 mil SS aircraft wire pulled to pull it down. It traveled over an aluminum pulley, then went to an aluminum handle. When the handle was pulled to put the gear down, it would move past center and lock into place. The landing gear wheel was a cut down skateboard wheel. There weren't any inline skates back then to get a nice thin, light wheel. Our landing gear was single sided, so we just got used to how to lean toward the wheel for a landing and learned at what speeds to move the handle. When the wheel was retracted, a little flap covered the small hole. I had made something light that would close up the hole to minimize the air drag to only the air leak around the little flap. It worked very well. It was closed by a rubber band, and the gear just pushed the flap open when it went down. 

Design Notes
You may notice in the photos that the noses of the Team Strange streamliners are made from tape sealed foam. This design allowed me to make noses easily so I could find what seemed to be the best flow. Also, because it was foam, in a crash the nose would just crush and make the crash safer. It could be fixed easily by just taping another nose on. From various learning experiences I had with my racecars, safety was always a strong concern of mine, so I tried to incorporate as many safety features into my bikes as possible.

I also had stainless steel tubing rollbars around the head of the rider so the bubble would not cave in on the riders. Seat belts were installed so a rolling crash would not allow the rider to bounce all over inside of the 'liner. 

The front view photo of Too Strange shows a small airflow tube from a duct in the nose to provide a flow of fresh air to the riders face and prevent the bubble from fogging up. The air tube is fed by a small NACA duct just at the top of the foam nose and below the bubble. I kept putting smaller and smaller sized NACA ducts in until the rider was still getting air, but with a minimum air input. I adjusted the tube until the airflow hit both the bubble and the riders face.

It's important to keep this airflow to a minimum because the air slows way down inside the fairing, then must be sped back up when it exits the fairing. The speeding up of exiting air adds to the drag and slows you down. 

To try to prevent this I built wheel wells around all the wheels as close to the wheels as possible, to minimize the air slowdown moving with the wheels. The wheels also had wheel disks, and the rear wheel had a baffle that was placed to scavenge the air running with the wheel and make it exit out the bottom rear of the body fin. The idea was to use the rear wheel as an air pump to get the air moving out the back of the streamliner faster and thus reduce drag. I still think it was a good idea, but the 3 wheel housings added 1.7lbs. and were hard to keep undamaged. I ran out of time to make lighter and stronger ones as I had too many other things to do.
Both streamliners were mostly monocoque (some body panels take loads) and most of the framing to the body panels was stainless steel tubing (old NASA scrap at local Miami yard). I used a Lexan bubble on the top. I blew 4 sheets and got only 2 bubbles where I got the shape I was trying for!

The blown bubble canopies were cut side to side so that the riders could get in and out. The cuts were made as far back as we could make them but ahead of the riders head so they still had room to get in. The front and back sections of the bubble sealed smooth for high speed runs.

For road races the rider would attach clothespins at the seam to leave an air scoop of about 1/4 inch all the way around the seam between the front and back sections of the canopy. The attachment of the canopy bubble to the body was built to not have any air gaps, even when it was being lifted by the clothespins to make the mentioned air scoop. I was still trying to keep drag down but also give riders some air for the long races.

The canopy bubbles were held on from the inside by guide clips and small bungee cord loops. This attachment method had an added benefit in that in a crash, a safety crew could open the bubble from the outside. 

Aerodynamic Testing

We did a few tows of "TOO STRANGE" behind a motorbike with a 75 ft long rope. We had two men on the motorbike, one sitting backward to read the scale. This was tricky and may not have been very safe. Note: When you get low bucks for doing things, you have to use your head, but try not to land on it. Unlike some of the streamliners we were running with, we had no wind tunnel. I think that real world testing is better anyway. If the wind and temperature cooperate, and there are no other cars on the road, you can travel the same speed the same way on the same road time after time, and take notes of your results. I used a fish scale between the rope and the motorbike to read if something about the design change was improving the aerodynamics or not. For instance some tests were to see if "TOO STRANGE" was more aero with the height of nose up or down from level. 

I had designed the front trike wheels to adjust up and down to give us three things we would not have had otherwise. First, was to lean over to accommodate corners. I was actually thinking about trying to make it also lean with steering input, but all that was too much added weight. Second, was so that I could figure out at what height the body had the least amount of drag. That way if I wanted to adjust it for all out speed, which I liked best, I could do so. Third, was to give road clearance for rough road races (3 in 1 for any design thing is good, but simple is always best too). 

Team Strange Riders
TEAM STRANGE had 2 main "motors" and 1 part time rider, "ME", to give the others something to laugh at. Motor #1 was Carlos Sotolongo. He was 20 years old at the time, lived close by and was a really good local ten-speed racer. In addition, he liked race cars, knew how to work on them, and had a good understanding of how things worked, so he could tell me if anything in the bike sounded wrong. He was faster in the streamliners than anyone else that I had try out! Motor #2 was Dean Pierson, who was then 21. He was a Florida State Sprints Champ, and was very fast on ten speeds, even faster than Carlos. Dean tried very hard but was not as fast as Carlos was in the streamliner. Dean had outright fear of all the noises inside a full fairing. It was quite a shock going from the quiet of an unfaired bike to the noise inside an aluminum-sided streamliner. He wasn't a mechanic, so he didn't know if the sounds were going to eat him or what, and I think that was distracting to him. He gave super tries anyway, and if Dean had had more time in the streamliners he would've been a rocket. Both riders agreed that if they had had more familiarity and practice in the bikes, that we wouldn't have given away as many mph in top speed trials as we did. The results of which was improper timing of exactly when to hit our max effort sprint.

More about Strange One
This picture shows Dana Barlow (myself) and Murray Wilmerding (Comet rider) behind a side by side comparison (left to right) of Strange Too, Strange One, The Moby 3B, and the Infinity Comet, to allow you to get a good idea of the relative sizes. You can see that Strange One was super low with a very small profile. Note that both the Moby and Strange One are sitting on their landing gear, which I designed. Strange One wasn't initially designed to be a full streamliner, it was just the 61 lb test mule bike, made of old parts and even some EMT electrical tubing. 
I had built the Strange One test mule just to work some things out, but I ran out of time to develop the final bike in 1984, so I put a hastily made full outer shell on it and off Carlos and I went to have some fun at the IHPVA races in Indy. We did pretty well and amazed many of the regulars by going over 50 mph in the sprints. Not bad for a team that I put together only four months before. In that time I designed and built the test bike, found the motor (Carlos), and he even got to train in it for almost a week!
I hadn't realized that it was hard to ride till Carlos tried it. I had designed, built, and ridden other bents before, but not for racing or anything this low. At first, testing was done with only part of it built, just enough to ride the thing. I had my 8 year old son Lance push me from time to time as I was building it, to see if I could steer and balance it. As I was testing, without knowing it I was mentally adjusting myself to ride it, rather than actually improving the way the bike rode. 

After about the third time Carlos crashed it he said, "Ok, let's see you ride this thing old man", so I did. I came back and stopped in front of Carlos and he said, "well if you can, I can." With the blood running off one of his arms, he got back in and kept trying four more times until he was riding it well. I knew from those tests that I needed to do even more with the rake and trail of the fork and head tube. I then made some big improvements including a front fork with extremely long horizontal dropouts to test the trail, and re-welding the head tube three times to adjust head tube angle, but it was still tricky to ride if you hadn't ever ridden a bike that was that low to the ground. 

Balance is in your head through your inner ear. That's where your information is coming from for steering input. Laying your head back that much messes up your equilibrium somewhat but the biggest thing about being that low to the ground is timing. Balancing requires a much faster reaction time when you are really low. Think of a "V" with the bottom being where the wheel touches the ground, and the top of that "V" is where your head is, leaning back and forth. The lower your head is down the "V", the less side to side movement you feel, and the less time you have to make a movement to balance the bike. 

This means that your reflexes must be even faster and finer if you are very low, no matter how good the design of the rake and trail is!

One of Carlos' fun tricks was to have one of his bike racer friends come try to ride Strange One. After showing him how fast he could go by, he would stop and let them try riding it. They would always crash the first time. They would trade obscenities and then laugh out loud.

This was all done in what I had thought was to be a test bed bike. Strange One did eventually get a little lighter after rubbing parts of the frame off on the road and we knew the welds held. I never did complete the light weight version of Strange One. I started working on Too Strange and it took too much time, so I just made Strange One a better nose cone and bubble, and added a fully sealed front wheel sliding disk to keep the air out. This can be seen as a white disk on the body and front wheel Pantaloon in some of the photos showing Strange One.

After Indy '85 I had some extra design ideas for the follow-up to Strange One in '86 with much more stability than I had seen on any of our competitors. The final bike design was close to completion when I ran out of time. It was going to be front wheel driven and use all the light stuff, with a weight more like 35 lbs in race form. Then putting food on the table got back in the way. At Indy I got to meet and talk with a lot of super people and wouldn't trade those times for any other!

What ever became of those Team Strange streamliners? 
In 1989 I gave "Strange One" to one of my helpers, Dave Rutherford. He asked if I was going to just leave it out in back of my house, and when I said yes he said that he would like it! In 1992, here in Miami, Hurricane Andrew at 160mph+ ate Dave's shed along with "Strange One" so that one is gone to where good bikes go in the sky. Ha, really in the sky! 

In more recent news, I was just asked by some local bent guys in the South Florida Recumbent Riders group if I would fix up 'ol "Too Strange" and bring it out to their race on March 12, 2005. Jose H. & Walt said they're going to come over and help me dig it out of my shed. It's so far under stuff that I can't see it, but I know I put it there 12 or 15 years ago when I moved it from the race car shop. We'll see if it can be fixed. Should be fun! 

Dave took this picture of the old landing gear on Strange One in about 1990. It was in very bad shape by then. You can see that the return spring goes up inside of landing gear tube! 
Here's a shot of Strange One leading a race.
Here's Strange One with its hastily manufactured temporary body that I made for the 1984 races. Note little pop-up air scoop on top of the fairing. It would blow on the riders face and he could close it for the last part of the speed run. This body was not in the world long. I soon updated it to what you see in the other pictures.

Here's how the front wheel seal worked. My design worked but could have been better. Like most things I built, as soon as I finished them I would get a better idea. I would need to stop myself from forever redoing things. This was plastic sheets and lots of graphite. The pantaloon had little foam shapes taped to front and back of the wheel box (they are gone in the pictures) The box was bolted to fork. Note: This picture was from the temporary body.

I'm happy that the Moby is still going. That's cool, but does that make it an Antique streamer? 

Dana and Jose pulled the Too Strange 'liner from Dana's shed. It looks repairable!
The tires are almost rotted off the rims but beyond that it's in remarkable condition for having sat in a shed for 20 years. 
Dana Barlow, Team Strange, Miami Fla.

Dana Barlow racing history

Email Dana at - danabarlow4 "at" 

Time to get the trike ready for the 2005 Florida HPRA HPV races. My race car driving son Lance (now age 27), and one of his buddies Danny, are going to be the riders. Since neither one of them ride bikes much, they're just going to the races to have fun. When they saw how "Too Strange" looked getting fixed up over the past few weeks, they got all hopped up on the idea of HPV racing. They were too little to race it back in the 80's so now I'm going to let them have a good time with it. I know I could have found a big power rider that would make it go much faster, but I think this will work out better for the fun of family.

Looks like I'll be working on trying to make the old gears shift right up to the last minute. I ,just ordered a new derailleur and new a 13x34 freewheel, I hope they fit! I could not get the 20+ year old gearing to smooth out!

We had a great time, but no other streamliners
showed, phooey!! It was a pretty day and lot of really good guys and gals showed up to have much fun. Garrie and Jose and the gang did a super job of it all. Old "Too Strange", powered by my son Lance, set a new 200M RECORD for the Brian Piccolo Park track. He posted a speed of Over 38 mph. Not too bad for only a 300M run up before the timing trap, a 12 to 15 mph head wind, and being powered by a rider that has a lot of willpower but is not a bikeracer. Pretty cool!

The back half  of Too Strange's top was left off in the road race just to keep the rider really cool. There was no competition to worry about so why not? In the 20 minute race Danny was in, he lapped the second place rider two times just cruising along with the top open having fun. It was a pretty small and twisty  course, not great for streamliners and the wind was blowing in everyone's face on the only straightaway, but fun anyway.
"Strange 1"was built for 1984 & 1985 International Human Powered Speed Championships @ Indy & raced many at other events for nearly 3 years. 
It was made mostly of EMT, sheet aluminum & old bike parts, as it was only to be test mule, but it was raced at 50mph+. It was a monocoque & space-frame combo, with front-wheel sealed-up moving Pantaloon. Vacuum formed Polycarbonate windows gave it good visibility. 
Strange1 Design
Overall Length 120 inches.
Widest Point 18 inches at shoulders of rider.
Total height of 31 inches, riders eyes/ears were about 24 inches off ground.
Ground Clearance of main body about 3.5 inches on center line, with round bottom for leaning in corners.
Retractable & seal-up flap landing gear on one side.
Weight 44% F+56% R, seat-belts & safety foam nose, computer, 61 pounds. 
Strange 1 was designed rider max of 5ft.11in.tall or less, jam but hard.
This drawing was to prove out ideas for "Strange Try" the real full racing design by Dana Barlow of Miami Fla. "Team Strange"  danabarlow at yahoo. com

Dana on HPV Racing
A longer wheelbase is always better than a shorter wheelbase for stability at high speeds. This is true for race cars as well as HPVs. A long nose overhang combined with a short wheelbase allows both the polar moment and wind pressure on the nose to have high influences, which are detrimental to handling. Many 'liner HPVs use a short wheelbase thinking it saves weight that having the wheel pushed further back will keep the air laminar on the body for longer. 

I don't like the trade off they make with those ideas. My #1 rule is: "To finish first, you must first finish". is not happy; with the poor safety of bad handling from the high polar moment on short wheelbase, which added to side wind influence, kills nearly any control there maybe left!
My way of dealing with all that is to "*fair and seal" the front steering wheel so the only real drawback of having a long wheel base is cut to near nothing by using the "Moving Pantaloon" wheel fairing seal. "Strange 1" from the 1980's used just this type of set up. Even on a fairly short wheelbase this seal of front wheel is of great help.

Many Liners make big trade offs in steering turn radius and that also takes away the fun of road racing them well or sometimes at all. After putting all that work in a 'liner and then have it only able to in a mostly straight line seem a waste. If it were up to me I would make a rule that if a 'liner can
not road race, it can not hold a record of any kind. The tradeoff in reduced steering radius has been at the root of many crashes!

More good stuff from Dana that I have not yet had to to entirely reformat:

Wheel fairings; you asked "Care to elaborate?", so I looked around on the web to see if I could find what I  remembered, so I would not need to put you to the test of my bad writing. It seems I can find some of what I wished (lucky deal). My point was to cut frontal area without adding drag by not having big fillets, which also simplifies their makeup. Smaller frontal area makes up for or is even better then big fillets, because the big fillets move more air at a higher speed to get around them (which subtracts power). We are after all trying to put the air back together again like 'All the kings men and old Humpty', so if we split it apart a bit less it is not as hard to blend more back together

Don't get lost in this link, just get the good stuff;

In addition to the air flowing past the wheel and tire, our HPV wheel fairings have an airflow spinning around with the wheel and tire. When it comes out of the fairing, it will suck air off of the outside of the wheel fairing at the front where that does the most damage to the good flow around it. The way to cut that mess of air coming out with wheel rotation down is to cut the amount of air that can come out of the inside of the body at the front of the wheel. This is a big deal, and why I was playing with a front wheel seal Pantaloon. Air being sucked into the fairing with the back of the wheel should be limited too, but what is left maybe could be used to help suck the air back together as it passes the end of wheel fairing,  possibly by using a very small slit in the trailing edge of the wheel fairing. 

The seal between the wheel fairing and the tire was made from foam, cut and shaped into a nose and tail, with foam core sides. (all disposable / replaceable / changeable ). To get a tight fit around the front and back of the tire, and keep it just off the road, I would cut the fairing to the shape of the wheel, and then slide sandpaper around the tire until it would fit very closely but not rub.
Having a sealed cover over the whole wheel is good, but it's also a PITA, and was not as light as I wished. It also made working on things take too long, so I junked them, but it's something that could be added to lower the drag if all of the other things were already worked out.

*** A nice way to make turning Pantaloon seal move is to
design it so the head tube goes 90* to Pantaloon seal
(+ball and socket secession round type lip a long were
wheel fairing/Pantaloon meets bodywas designed to be at 90* to head tube. 

For something to look into some day when it's raining or
snowing;We used vortex gen.s as flow correcting trips on
race car wings and a few other places like rad and brake
duck flow,this looks like it could be interesting?, just
for extra thinking(I like to look at there data,and try and
see if there merit or mostly hype;

At some point,like I did,you come to the time to say let's
race!just make the good stuff we have now and race it,we'll
add some of the other cool trick shit latter!
When in doubt,just do something that looks fast and it will
be at lest close.
If you need some ruff drawings of wheel-fairing,I'll do a
few,but I think you have a good start,been trying say they
look a little too fat to me and why!on yellow drawing. 
Team Strange
PS,I should said in other note for sizing thing that
"Strange 1" was race in many events over about almost 3
years. I think it reads like it only raced at Indy 1 year?

Here are some of my ideas (drawing showing rough ideas), but for them to make sense, you already need to know what I was trying to do from other notes, which I think you do now? and you may of been thinking along same lines anyway. Good for both wheels but back Wheel-fairing does not turn and would be blended in to body. 

Warren ,
Hopefully by now you had time to read about small
fillet/fairing/root ,I did not fine anything exactly
covering what I remember but close to what I was trying to
tell you about, it dose cover most of ideas.
Should be enough there so you got idea that should simplify
wheel fairings and drop frontal area.
The ZZ strip info looked interesting too!(no I never used
them before,is why I'd check it out.I have used some vortex
gen fins on a few spots on race cars plus lips to guide
flow,not really same thing,but to the same end)too good to
be true?????I alway leary of stuff if I had not also tested
After reading about ZZ strips it seem good to test on
something, should work on body and wheel fairing as well. 

The ZZ strips can be home made(near no $ layed out,so I
like that part rite away) with pinking shears & thick
tape( about .010) be-sure to keep zig zag pattern. Even on
the old Cuda body Zig Zag strips should make enough gain to
show on a rolldown test,if you can do at same wind(speed &
duration). Oil* would flow test to find were to put ZZ
strips and then add and test,only work if speed gets up 
high 30+ to see flow and if strips in the right place.
*something like oil but thinner may work better?


--- Warren Beauchamp wrote:

PS; had sent email to Reg,and he was asking about
wheelfairing design(Cuda-W),I told him it may be good for
you to tuft test a few temp made foam and tape ideas just
after you can ride Cuda-W and someone to video from the
back of a motorbike with tela on close up so the motor bike
air is not screwing up Cuda-W air(three lane road maybe
best for that but at 30 mph ten feet should about min.
space for independint smooth air(I can send some ideas of 
shapes to try,but need some sizes to help make some fast
ruff drawings if you wish? Remember that size of seal leak
at wheel opening with greatly infulins flow at ground and
pull on air of fairing.
Here is part of email To Reg after he asked about wheel
well fairings;
I can help with ideas on wheel fairings,but doing it rite
or doing it just pretty best guess?("there is a lot to be
said about what looks fast is at lest in the ball park";
These note's maybe also good for your other HPV's as well
as the Cuda-W.
Wheel fairings notes & need to knows;
Wheel base and were it is in fairing,plus how far wheel is
out of fairing,what size wheel is(wide___in. Die.___in. of
each,plus how much turn of front,max. lean of Hpv.give the min. size of spot the tires we are trying to cover
and seal* are. The seal needs to incorporate in to wheel
Most of info about ground effect from wind tunnel testing
was done in non moving floor tunnels so is all screw up
<(no good),not tell just a few years ago (GM)did any one
built a wind tunnel with a moving floor to simulate the
road moving under a shape or wheel and have the wheel
turning on floor at real road speed.
That means,we will not fine much good info about wheel
I did some tuft testing in the 80's,but no were near as
much as should of been done(it was only hobby hpv
fun).there are many variables of wheel fairing root to body
fairing(like that of a keel to hulldays is less radius then were popular years ago.
In this case we also have a wheel moving a lot of air with
it,and the big hole around front wheel as it steers to deal
withthe #1 body shape,front wheel flow by the tire and running
around with the tire like a air pump,can screw up a lot of
flow .
I have a few ideas of shapes to try and seals to cut back
on flow pulling air out of preferred line around wheel
fairing shape,but;
Warren is nearing getting things rolling,and when he dose;
Some temp wheel fairing shapes should be made and tuft
run/with photos done to get anything near best shape.
Wheel fairing can be temp made of foam cut shapes and duck
tape seal,then tuft tested to look for eddy's.
Reg,I looked at photos of your Stormy W-HPV,even well done
disk wheels out side a full fairing put out drag as if they
are turned sideways to wind as air moving with the disk and
on the tire flow around to come into the oncoming wind
making a very big mess out of air flow,a Pantaloon on the
outside wheels cuts a lot of drag made by moving wheel.
Here is also some notes to Warren about wheel disk covers
and other stuff below**;

I had said a little something about this before,did not get
any feedback on the old note about disk,but I had the time
to write it out better for you;
*If you have the super bucks to buy solid disk wheels,don't
even read this!Ha 
*****If your making your own by adding a disk over your
spoke wheels,then there is a mistake that is commonly
done,and takes away some of the gain in low drag your
trying to get with all your work of adding a disk to your
Do you know how a squirrel cage fan works,and how much
power it takes to run one?I know you said yes! Well most
all added disks I look at shows a air leak around the
hub/axles of wheel,plus the disk are not sealed at the
rim/tire/and air valve. As the wheel turns air is sucked in
to hole in the center(hub/axle)of disk that is not sealed
and the centrifugal force is moving as much air as it can
get out from the leak at the rimfan that is using power to pump air,then to add even more
worries,all that pumping air is now making a big
distributing mess around tire adding to drag were tire
comes out of fairing pulling air with it off wheel fairing
and also adding power lost in making even more air move
inside fairing as well.
Team Strange,smoking my [sell check]again.
PS;Old note to you about disk,you had asked how I made
mine; "But I hold mine on a little def. by 3M #355*,clear
2"tape on inside of one side on spokes to back of disk,the
other side of wheel,is added after that,both disk are cut
to leve a very small gab at rim,so small sq, of #355 will
go though between rim and disk to both disk sides,holding
disk together,then the disk and rim-seem are covered by
Scotch #35 white vinyl elec.tape to seal so air dose not
pump from center of disk(also seal with tape)to rim and
out(high drag). (all is
white=holds up better in sun)"

As we are talking about back of bike fairing,the place that
acted up most on flow with"Strange 1" was just as flow
along body passed my shoulders<(widest point) just after it
started to go to trailing edge."Too Strange"had a nicer EZ
line at that point but showed same tuft wiggle just pass
the wide point also at back of front wheels. I had given
some thinking to playing with them,but time was not there
then, (vortex gen)could add to lower drag by helping to keep flow moving on a
plain that will help it to flow back in to hole bike made a
bit better with less roll.
Looking around web shows some others are using this way to
drop drag as well at lower speeds and not just race car

As we are talking about back of bike fairing,the place that
acted up most on flow with"Strange 1" was just as flow
along body passed my shoulders<(widest point) just after it
started to go to trailing edge."Too Strange"had a nicer EZ
line at that point but showed same tuft wiggle just pass
the wide point also at back of front wheels. I had given
some thinking to playing with them,but time was not there
then, (vortex gen)could add to lower drag by helping to keep flow moving on a
plain that will help it to flow back in to hole bike made a
bit better with less roll.
Looking around web shows some others are using this way to
drop drag as well at lower speeds and not just race car

I'd like to pass along a website that has some extra info
useful to fairing trailing edges designs. I have taken for
granted mant times the crossovers of both air and water
flow,so sometimes think every one can see the useful info
in boats for HPV fairings,many little parts of info about
sails and hulls are good. I grew up around sailboat
design(My Dad was Barlow Boats of Coconut Grove Fla. in the
1950's)and I designed and built race cars were I use alot
of aero plus mec..
**Near the bottom of this page below is a part talking
about trailing edges of keel and rudder,water is thicker so
size is off,but info is still very good to think about!

It sounds like the 2005 Morris events were fun events, Congratulations to all! It takes a lots work for those running the event and also lots for the racers. It takes some extra work just for the 'liner owners to get to the event. Not running the last man out in front of the spectators, was a missed opportunity in front of a real auto racing crowd though. On the other hand, it was just as well and very smart not to have had a bad showing! 

The group is not ready for big time growth yet but getting closer. I can see there is still a lack of understanding the "Show" side racing and how it helps us all. It looks like many are so tie up in there own thing, that there is no seeing the big picture. Maybe it is that no one ever tried to tell them?. I have found over the years that many bike racer types don't even look at auto racing, so they are outright uninformed about how big time racing really works, other then their own fun in the park.

I guess few HPV racers really understand what needs to be done to grow more liners. Some of the things at the root of
it,is said;"We had to pack everything up and vacate
> the infield, 
> so a bunch of the streamliner racers decided to just go
> home rather than 
> unpack everything to do the demo last man out race during
> the sprint car 
> intermission."* 
That above sentences said a lot, showmanship to grow the
sport is not under-stud by those that see it as to hard to
do*,that the new blood comes from good shows in front of a
crowd,also gets press that way!
There is bad lack of design,(it is rite there in front of
them,but I just don't see more using the info?;
in that it takes them too long to stag. maybe not be known.
*Way to many liners are over looking the need to get in and
out and start and stop on there own,not only dose it cut 
many crashes out and that saves you work,but it makes it so
you can be part of a good show that dose not look like a
bunch of miss designed oddballs,there is not much excuse
for this.The time one spends making there liner so they can
get in & out + start & stop with out helps pays them back
most likely in the first race.

Ps;if you think the group needs this note,I'll send to
list,or make changes???

If want wish a crowd of fans and to get paid for racing (your fun), all racing needs to be show biz first and racing second. The best way to do this is to get the HPVs in front of a the public & press in any places where any other type of racing are occuring that already have a fan base (crowd on hand). There are many parts to a great show, but one it can not do without is it's own really good announcer. If you depend on using the announcer that's at an existing event to do the announcing for HPVs, it's a crap shoot at best. For lack of knowing anything about the racers or sport, he may even badmouth HPV's. That's not very proffessional, but it can even happen when the announcer is announcing for an out of town class of cars that he knows little about. Those often come as a travelling road show too! The ideal scenario is if the PR/announcer/promoter is all the same person, then all 3 actually know what the hell the others are doing, and yes, there is a read need of it being a dictatorship. 

If there are just few racers (meaning 3 to 8 streamliners or other HPVs), then it's best to put on a "Show" until you have a big of Field 9 to 12+ bikes at which point the racing can be real. Short HPV Streamliner races can be a good show when they are announced well. Good shows are asked back to race again, plus paid for the show. If the racers are pretty evenly matched or they know they must make a good show and stage a close race, they can have the actual race when they practice earlier in the day at the track, then just put on an exciting show for the spectators. 

Races must be short or you have lost the good "Show", as auto race fans will get bored fast! Those short "Show" races will get a few fans that cannot afford race cars to built 'liners. A good show will also get good press, while a long race that is not very close with out lead changes & close finish, sucks in any type racing (from a "Show standpoint). Know your fans that are there, and know that most auto race fans are going to get board after 10 minutes anyway, no matter how good the show so make it good and short. If you are asked back, you did super! When you've already been asked back,as part of a show that is not just a oddball deal, then the track may give enough time to have a line-up anouncement of each racer when they are setting on the track at the start line. This lets the fans hear a very short blurb about each racer, which is nice if there is time to do it. If the fans for the most part have seen you do a good race before, then you can take it all to the next level by getting some cheap Frisbees or other promo items, and having each racer though one signed with his name and race number to the fans when when his name is announced. This type of thing gets super fan appeal. The fan that got a frizbee will sure be to be cheering for that bike&rider. The frizbee or other item is also a good spot for extra advertising, along with the autograph cards.

(Edited by Warren Beauchamp)

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