NoCom Modifications & Stuff 
  Also see the NoCom page
By Warren Beauchamp
2/20/2006
Ed's NoCom was sold to me (Warren) in the spring of 2005. A new NoCom is really a NoCom kit. It takes a lot of tweaking to make it roadworthy. Ed had already modified the front dropouts to allow the use of a 406mm Stelvio front tire, and tweaked the bike so it performed well. I rode it all year without modifying anything. I think that's some kind of record for me.
That winter I decided it was time to change a few things.

I ran the cables inside the frame, made a cutout in the seat back to allow storage of pump, tubes, tools and small water bladder inside the frame, added a front derailleur and built a new set of wheel disks for the front wheel.

Also I modified the return chain routing. This is a trick I learned from Larry and Allen. The chain tube is just held in place by a big plastic wire tie. It floats but is kept from rubbing on the seat and idler, which reduces chain friction.
Here's the NoCom in spring 2006. Rear brake and both front and rear shifter cables enter the frame through 3 small holes an inch or two behind the headset and are routed through the hollow body. Because no two NoComs are the same, this may no be as easy on another NoCom.
2/22/06
I have been working on a couple of other speed bits for the NoCom. The first is a rear fender, which will not only keep the water off the back of my head, but will allow my to use my aero helmet. Without it, the tail of the aero helmet would rub on the wheel. 
The second is remote steering. The pink protuberance in this picture is the beginning of the remote steering arm mold. I still need to finish shaping it, cover it in fiberglass, and make it pretty before it will be able to be used. 

I really don't like tiller bars, though I think they are more aero than the superman bars. Remote steering allows a tight human package while retaining good control of the bike. 

12/26/06
Over the past year I have a few changes to the NoCom. I finished the mold for the remote steering, but have not yet created a steering arm from the mold as I'm now fairly happy with the tiller setup.

I added about 2" of height to the headrest and removed the fender. (in this photo it still needs sanding and clear-coat) The headrest provides something for my Aero helmet to rest on, which keeps it off the tire, and doesn't detract from the looks (like the fender did).

I changed the shifters to bar-end friction shifters, which allowed me to narrow the handlebars a bit. Narrowing the handlebars pulled my elbows in to my sides. They were flopping around in the wind a bit with the wider handlebars. I moved the brake handles to a stem mounted position. They are now thumb brakes. I haven't cut them up to mount them directly next to each other yet, I'll see how they work on the road first... They should be much more aero.
Here's picture of the derailleur cable coming out from behind the seat stay. There is an ovalized hole on the inside of the stay for the cable to enter the frame through. A small unobtrusive cable tie secures it to the lip on the edge of stay (a black tie would have been better!)

I had  been waiting on a new front boom with integrated front derailleur post from Dana for about 9 months. This would allow me to finally install the Rotor cranks. These are all small improvements but when you add up a bunch of small improvements it makes a big difference in speed. 

1/14/07
I couldn't wait any longer. I finally bonded in a new derailleur mount tube  to allow use of the RotorCranks. I had it all epoxied on last weekend and then had to break it off when I found that I had put it it the wrong position. Doh! This week I got it in the right place. I still need to polish it up so it's shiny like the rest of the bike...
 
NoComs seem to accumulate holes in the frame. Here's how you can fill in all those holes while keeping the bike looking nice. If you can get behind the hole, first lay up a small piece of fiberglass on the inside of the hole as a backing. You can wet the fiberglass out on some plastic wrap and use that to mash the fiberglass into the inside of the bike without having it stick to your hand. This still leaves you with a shallow hole. To fill that you need to make some "NoCom putty", which is a mixture of epoxy, microballoons or cotton flox, and graphite. The graphite makes it black. A little goes a long way. A little sanding and some clear coat and good as new...
2/03/07
It's the middle of winter, there's snow on the ground, and it's been 0 degrees F outside for a week. Yeah, I'm going a bit stir crazy.
Introducing Darth NoCom. Yeah, that's me in there. These helmets were on sale for $10 at Walmart before Christmas. I couldn't resist. Think they'll let me race in it?
2/04/07
I decided that I could deal with the center mounted brake levers, but couldn't bring myself to cut up the expensive Paul levers. Instead I hacked up a pair of somewhat heavier, and much less expensive Forte (Performance) levers.

In this picture I have cut off the tubing clamp portion of the brake lever, and disassembled it. The levers will be bolted to the carbon fiber bracket using the lever pivot hole, and the threaded clamp mole.

Here you can see the bolt passing through the lever pivot holes of both levers. The larger bolt seen below is screwed into the old clamp threaded hole on one side. The other side was drilled out to allow a bolt to be  inserted from the side of one brake handle, and screwed into the other.
Here's the brake levers reassembled and bolted to the carbon fiber bracket. Some washers are used between the levers and the bracket on the upper bolt to provide proper spacing. The top of the lever was filed smooth and spray painted black to match the handle.
A slot was cut in the bottom of the NoCom handlebar, and the bracket was glued into the slot with some JB-Weld. Looks nice.
Alan A. Put me on the Watties box. I'm somebody now!
2/5/07
Right to left, Alan, Sean and I on our NoComs, cheesing it up after a training session.

We are taking a class called "The Grind", at a local bike store. The three of us, plus 5 roadies, follow a computerized training run, while watching our wattage on a big screen. It definitely takes some of the boredom out of Winter training.

9/03/07
I have been riding the heck out of this bike all year. After breaking the 1 hour record on his NoCom, Sean was able to get Terracycle to build a larger 23T idler to replace the stock one. We all bought one.
 
 

Back to the WISIL 'bent Stuff page

Copyright 2004 WISIL HPVers. All rights reserved.