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10/30/02 |
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| This is the female mold for the canopies. It has a neoprene gasket around the perimeter, and a vacuum fitting on the bottom. | ![]() |
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Place the piece of plastic on the gasket, and clamp a rim retainer to the mold. As the plastic is heated, air will be removed in the mold and atmospheric air pressure will form the plastic into the mold. | ||||||
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| With radiant heating of the plastic, it only takes about three minutes for the plastic to come up to forming temperature. I then pulse the vacuum pump and form the plastic. | ![]() |
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The heat is turned off, the plastic cools down for two minutes, open the clamps, and VOILA! One bubble, approximately 32" x 11" wide x 8" deep. The plastic is .060" stock with minimum thickness of 045" at the top. | ||||||
| Next step - start the fairing.......... | |||||||
| OK, itšs time to start on the main part of the GeeBee
Varna.....the actual rolling chassis. With the Varna design, as with many of the fastest HPVšs,
there is no frame wrapped in a fairing. The design is called a monocoque,
or in this case, a semi-monocoque. The entire bottom part of the fairing is structural, and is thus the frame of the vehicle. This tub then is used to mount the various subassemblies like wheels and drivetrain, seat, suspension, and top half of the fairing. With the GeeBee Išll start with this tub. |
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| I have two oriented layers of 10.3 oz. intermediate modulus carbon fiber cloth placed in the bottom mold. After doping the cloth with epoxy, I vacuum bag the entire lot to consolidate the fiber and remove the excess epoxy. This will yield an extremely dense and strong canoe shape. | ![]() |
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| A side note here which will be affirmed by all streamliner builders........ getting the vacuum bag to seat into the tight compound curves of the nose and the tail can be a real challenge. I always find myself tensing up when debagging fairing in these areas. Did everything work? Did the bag tuck in properly? Is everything going to be a bunch of scrap? In this case, everything worked. | |||||||
![]() Tail in mold |
![]() Nose view |
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Herešs a few shots of the skin of the tub pulled out of the
mold.
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| Strong, light, but not nearly strong enough. The next step is to core the structure. Here you see the shell back in the mold and a layer of .200 Nomex honeycomb glued in place. When another two layers of carbon are bonded to the top of the Nomex honeycomb, we will have a structure which approximates the strength of solid carbon fiber .200 thick! But not the weight of that thickness. | ![]() |
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Next: Construction of the fairing top |
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