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Landing gear for the Barracuda Streamliner |
| By Warren Beauchamp |
1999 - Folding Landing Gear 2001 - Telescoping Landing Gear When I originally put the full fairing on the Barracuda, I thought that I would be able to start and stop by just putting my hand down. This proved to be a little harder than I had anticipated, and at the Northbrook and Kenosha races I ended up doing some spectacular race finishes sliding on my side when I bounced off of my hand onto my other side. At this point in time I decided that it was time to make the landing gear. I had seen many types of landing gear. Some used two wheels, some used one, most didn't work very well, some of them failed at inopportune moments. The one I had seen that worked well was on John Simon's Moby. It was a single wheel approach, where the bike was leaned over to one side slightly when at rest. I raced the 'Cuda using a folding landing gear system to start and stop between 1999 and 2001. It worked well, but as it folded up and down, it required a large gash in the fairing to raise and lower, and did not completely retract into the fairing. After breaking the brake cable I had used to raise and lower the landing gear a couple times, Don Barry took pity on me and gave me some aircraft cable. It fit in the brake housing fine, and I had no more cable breakage problems. When I modified the 'Cuda to use a 700C rear wheel, I rethought the landing gear, and decided to use a telescoping design instead of the folding design I had used previously. 10/3/1999 - Folding landing
gear
The cable pulls the gear down, until it reaches a stop. The stop is placed just past the point where the wheel would naturally fold up, so that the pressure on the cable when starting/stopping is reduced. The top brace/pivot is attached to the chain stays with the ubiquitous tubing clamps, and pivot inside a concentric tube. The tube is placed at an angle so that it swings out and down simultaneously, and so that it is (fairly) close to the bike when folded. The picture below shows the clamp on the end of the tube, which holds the pivot in place, as well as serving as a stop.
The picture below shows the gear in the raised position. I still need to move the spring mounting point to a higher position so that it pulls the gear up a little higher. I used a cheap inline-skate wheel to roll on. The length of the landing gear's leg is also adjustable. The spring and derailleur cables are held on by a hose clamp.
The Landing gear is raised and lowered with a friction shifter. It provides just enough tension to hold the wheel in place when taxiing, taking off, and landing. The black strap above the derailleur handle is a black Velcro strap that I wrap around the handle for insurance when doing extensive taxiing, and if the handle's screw is loose.
The cable stop is mounted to one of the clamps under the seat.
After using the landing gear while racing for about 1/2 of the season this year without problems, my verdict is that it works! When starting out, I get it up to a couple MPH, give the steering a little jerk to right the bike, and raise the gear. When stopping, I lower the gear, then lean over to the left until I'm rolling on the wheel. At the 1999 NAC's I hit an aircraft tie down hole with the landing gear while taxiing back to the pits after a .decimach run. I fell over. Nothing was damaged, as the large hole had simply caused the gear to fold up. When using the bike in a non-faired mode, the landing gear does duty as a fancy remote control kickstand... 11/13/01 - Telescoping design The telescoping design uses concentric square for the landing leg and it's sliders. The leg itself is 7/8" x .049 wall square tubing, and the sliders are 1" x .058" square wall tubing. The wheel is a cheapo inline skate wheel.
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