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warren
human power expert

USA
4927 Posts

Posted - 04/07/2009 :  15:35:46  Show Profile  Visit warren's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Rick Wianecki is building a velomobile. He made many foam models to decide what he wanted the body to look like.



He will be documenting his build on this site as things progress.

-Warren.

rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
245 Posts

Posted - 09/02/2009 :  08:54:43  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Well I have been making progress on the frame for the velomobile. I will be getting together with Waren and starting a page with the complete build.



Rick

Edited by - rickmantoo on 09/03/2009 07:42:26
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rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
245 Posts

Posted - 09/03/2009 :  08:03:06  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Each of the front spindles slide in delrin bushings. There is a combination of a spring and a urethane bushing to provide the suspension. Right now I am using a medium rate spring that can be changed once I get the body mounted. The front wheels are 4406 and have drum brakes.



Rick W
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johntetz
Starting Member

USA
6 Posts

Posted - 10/04/2009 :  18:04:04  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by rickmantoo

Each of the front spindles slide in delrin bushings. There is a combination of a spring and a urethane bushing to provide the suspension. Right now I am using a medium rate spring that can be changed once I get the body mounted. The front wheels are 4406 and have drum brakes.



Rick W
Nice looking front suspension.
Looks like you have about a bit more than 1 inch of travel.

John Tetz

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rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
245 Posts

Posted - 10/05/2009 :  16:56:14  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
John

Thanks for the reply, yes the suspension should have 1 1/2" of travel.

Rick w
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jnyyz
recumbent enthusiast

Canada
269 Posts

Posted - 10/14/2009 :  14:54:44  Show Profile  Visit jnyyz's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Rick:

why can't you be the first to make a narrow track leaning delta based velomobile?

your former neighbour

Jun
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rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
245 Posts

Posted - 03/06/2010 :  15:48:58  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Well I have been working on the Velombile project some more.

I plotted and cut out foam sections for the fairing like I did for the F-n-L (now Attila) streamliner. Here are the section all cut out ready to be assembled.


After about two two hours of assembly.


This picture shows the electric assist trike in font of faring skeleton. The next step is covering the skeleton with strips of 1/2 inch foam to make the faring shell.
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Garrie L Hill
human power supergeek

USA
1460 Posts

Posted - 03/06/2010 :  16:47:38  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hey! Lookin' good, Rick.



Garrie "carbon based lifeform" Hill
HPRA Co-Dictator of the East
for pics of some of my time and money sucking projects
http://garriehill.winkflash.com/
and
http://s58.photobucket.com/albums/g277/cfbb/
and videos
http://vimeo.com/5513519


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rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
245 Posts

Posted - 03/07/2010 :  14:35:41  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I started to add the 1/2 inch foam strips today. I started on the bottom with 3 inch wide strips and worked my way up. when the curvature got tighter I changed to smaller strips.

Here is how it looks with the strips on the back side


I am adding a foam lip where the top section and bottom section meet.


Lots more to do!!!

Rick
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warren
human power expert

USA
4927 Posts

Posted - 03/07/2010 :  17:11:16  Show Profile  Visit warren's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Wow it's starting to look like a real velomobile now!
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rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
245 Posts

Posted - 03/14/2010 :  14:38:47  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Well I worked on the foam body some more this weekend. It is taking me longer then I expected but it is turning out great.
Here is a view of the body from the left rear, I still need to carve the foam to shape the rear section.


Here is a view from the front. Now it is starting to look like a Velomobile.


Still have a little to do on the right side and a lot of sanding to bring out the final shape. I also need to order some fiberglass cloth and epoxy.


Rick W

Edited by - rickmantoo on 03/14/2010 14:42:08
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Garrie L Hill
human power supergeek

USA
1460 Posts

Posted - 03/15/2010 :  12:07:06  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Wow! That really is quite nice. The strip built canoe technique is perfect for just this kind of thing.



Garrie "carbon based lifeform" Hill
HPRA Co-Dictator of the East
for pics of some of my time and money sucking projects
http://garriehill.winkflash.com/
and
http://s58.photobucket.com/albums/g277/cfbb/
and videos
http://vimeo.com/5513519


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rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
245 Posts

Posted - 03/18/2010 :  15:36:46  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I finished applying the 1/2" foam to the skeleton and then spent several hours sanding to get the shape I wanted.
This is looking at the rear of the body.


Looking from the front.


One of the front wheel opening


The next thing to do is cover the foam with 2 layers of 9 oz fiberglass cloth. I just happened to get a delivery from UPS.


Rick W

Edited by - rickmantoo on 03/24/2010 07:16:13
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raymondg
recumbent guru

865 Posts

Posted - 03/19/2010 :  08:58:24  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Rick,

Nice work, thanks for sharing. I like your approach.

Have you thought about radiusing the leading edge of the aft portion of the wheel wheels, to eliminate the sharp step the air sees as it flows along the side of the fairing? Or are you going to fully enclose the wheel well?

Also, may I ask how you are attaching the foam ribs to the foam bulkheads? I'm assuming the ribs stay in the fairing for stiffness, but the bulkheads are removed somehow after glassing the outside mold line?

Raymond
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rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
245 Posts

Posted - 03/19/2010 :  16:16:02  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Well Dave Johnson came by today and we did some more work on the Velo body.
We started out by covering the most of the foam with one layer of 9 oz fiberglas. It was attached with spray glue.


We then cut the second layer of cloth and stacked the pieces and started from the back wetting out the first layer and then adding the second, working toward the front.


After several hours two 9 oz layers on the main part of the body.


Once this cures I will turn the body over and place two layers on the bottom and the inside of the wheel wells.

Raymond I will not be enclosing the wheels and have not considered radiusing the back of the wheel wells. I used 3M Super 77 spray glue to assemble most of the shell and skeleton (6 can so far), I also used some hot glue on the inside surfaces, I plan on removing most of the ribs and bulkheads since I am just interested in the shell. I will add a layer of fiberglass on selected surfaces on the inside of the shell.

Rick W

Edited by - rickmantoo on 03/21/2010 06:53:41
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warren
human power expert

USA
4927 Posts

Posted - 03/19/2010 :  18:19:29  Show Profile  Visit warren's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Man Rick, you are cranking on it now!
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bowden
Starting Member

Canada
2 Posts

Posted - 03/20/2010 :  11:15:30  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
hi Rick

you are moving right along.

one trick if you are interested and you may already know. after you wet the cloth out with epoxy cover it with nylon fabric real cheap stuff i get mine for about $1.50 a yard 54" wide. sqweegie it onto the cloth. leave it on while you are doing other work to protect the surface. once you peel it off it leaves the same surface as the textured weave of the nylon. it fills the weave in the FG cloth and makes for less sanding.

i did the velo like that.

velo looking very good.

electric larry
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rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
245 Posts

Posted - 03/20/2010 :  13:13:46  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Warren
Thanks: Still so far to go!!

Larry

I have a roll of nylon fabric, I will have to give it a try. Thanks for the tip!

Rick W
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bowden
Starting Member

Canada
2 Posts

Posted - 03/20/2010 :  13:25:04  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
try the nylon out on a small part you are working on. make sure it peels off. some nylon has a coating on it.

on large compound areas you can cut it into smaller pieces so it doesn't pucker too much. saves a lot of time and saves doing a fill coat of epoxy. do you have an epoxy fairing putty or are you going to use micro balloons?

electric larry

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rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
245 Posts

Posted - 03/20/2010 :  16:08:23  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Well I got to work on the body a little today, I was able to flip it over and get the bottom section ready by precutting the fiberglass cloth. I hope to be able to get it epoxied tomorrow. I will not have any help.


Larry I have several bags of micro, I may just look for some light weight bondo after I prime with feather fill, not sure we will see how things go.

Rick W
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Upright Mike
human power expert

USA
3487 Posts

Posted - 03/21/2010 :  07:44:51  Show Profile  Visit Upright Mike's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Wow - Rick, if you need help (or gawkers, paparazi, fans) for that matter I'm only 90 minutes away!
but unfortunately probably like yourself and Dave I'm stuck with that thing called a "real job" even on Sundays!
but I don't complain since my real job let us all "play" on a great big test track to smash 11 world HPV records last year!

Edited by - Upright Mike on 03/21/2010 07:54:09
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rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
245 Posts

Posted - 03/21/2010 :  11:10:03  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Finished up the bottom 2-layers of cloth today, did not take all at long. I added some peel ply I had in-stock after the second layer of cloth. Looks like it is going to work great. Thanks Larry for the tip.


Back to the office tomorrow and then work on Atilla next weekend, Progress is going to slow down some.

Mike, Come over when it is sanding time!!

Rick W

Edited by - rickmantoo on 03/21/2010 12:37:07
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rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
245 Posts

Posted - 03/22/2010 :  17:36:17  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
So when I got home from work tonight, I removed the peel ply from the bottom section of the body.


It came up easy and left a very nice surface that will not need much additional work. Thanks Larry for the tip. Here is a picture of the underside at the nose you can see the difference in the surface between the peel ply side and no peel ply.


I flipped the body over and started to sand the surface There were several areas in the valley of the nose that the fabric bridged. I cut those out and relaid a couple layer of cloth and of course I am using peel ply on the outside.


I have some faring compound that I can mix with the epoxy, or I will look for some light weight bondo to refine the surface on areas I did not use the peel ply.

Rick W
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rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
245 Posts

Posted - 03/23/2010 :  17:32:01  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Today I decided to cut the removable top off and start adding the reinforcing strips to beef up the lip on the top and bottom section.
I first used some 1/8" carbon rods to mark the line that will be cut.


I then use a pull saw and a hacksaw blade to make the cut along the line.


Once the cut was made all around the top separated from the bottom.


Now I will be cutting foam wedges to reinforce the lip around the top and bottom before I add a layer or two of fiberglass to the lip and reinforcement.


Rick W

Edited by - rickmantoo on 03/23/2010 17:33:16
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raymondg
recumbent guru

865 Posts

Posted - 03/24/2010 :  08:19:05  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Rick,

Nice work, your are moving very fast. The velomobile is looking very sweet.

I have a question. I find that RT epoxy can still cure a lot in the first week, even after the initial hardening. Do you think you might have a problem with shrinkage of the two halves since you split them so soon? Do you think it would help to leave the foam ribs in for a week or so until the epoxy has cured more and become more stable? I think it would manifest as a subtle pucker along the parting line.

I'm asking because I've had some such issues with "cured" parts before, but I am not sure of the cause. This is one of my theories. Another, of course, is that cutting relieves internal stresses in the reinforcing fibers that get introduced during the initial lay up and cure. Another would be that I usually post cure around 170 F, but with carbon parts in fiberglass molds, so a thermal growth differential is introduced.

Anyway, I would be interested in your thoughts.

Regards,
Raymond
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rickmantoo
recumbent enthusiast

USA
245 Posts

Posted - 03/24/2010 :  12:38:04  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Raymond

Well it has been 4-days since I layed up the top part, with the West System I have not noticed any shrinkage on any of my other epoxy projects. It may have something to do with the foam core or not using any molds or I have been cold curing in the shop at night? It will still be a week or so before I get all the foam reinforcing in place and ready for the epoxy and glass the. I will then put the pieces back together and do the final fit and finish before I remove the internal sheleton and fit the frame. I plan on adding one layer of glass on the inside to seal up the foam after everything in put together.

Thanks for the comments

Rick W
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