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warren Posted - 10/05/2010 : 20:00:56
I'm working on this thing again. Hopefully it will be done and tweaked for BM 2011.


25   L A T E S T    R E P L I E S    (Newest First)
mhelander Posted - 08/08/2014 : 04:52:27
Warren, sounds like you'll have great BM event ahead. You should see my diy-offroader's scratches and dents... it's just sign of proper use I guess.


Diy bents: Full-suspended off-roader @ 2012, Vendetta clone @ 2012
Commerials: MetaPhysic 700c @ 2011, M5 CrMo Lowracer @ 2010
warren Posted - 08/07/2014 : 14:20:43
I made a shorter non springy replacement for the front subframe shock to lower the front end. The bike seems to be level now. No shock absorber is needed for Battle Mountain.

For Battle Mountain this year I will move the 63T chainring from the old drivetrain to the new one. With that chainring the speed at 90 RPM will be 67 MPH. It should be perfect for a 70MPH top speed (I can dream, right?). I'm going to take the old drivetrain too in case the new one has problems.

I am now busy making a new front wheel fairing and doing bodywork. The entire body seems to be covered with scratches and chips. How could that possibly have happened?


Garrie L Hill Posted - 07/27/2014 : 14:19:37
Here's the video of Warren ( in his yellow Cuda ) coming past twice.

....and here is a clip from the Star Wars movie


Garrie "carbon based lifeform" Hill
HPRA Co-Dictator of the East
for pics of some of my time and money sucking projects
and videos

warren Posted - 07/27/2014 : 09:19:11
Cuda subframe3 did make it through the Northbrook races, but not without issues.

After about 20 minutes the drivetrain had something rubbing, It was making interesting noises that Garrie Hill said sounded like Anakin's pod racer. I slowed down a bit to make sure I finished the race. Then the old tape holding my canopy on got melty in the sun and came loose. Eventually the canopy blew off onto the track. That's when I really slowed down.

The other thing is the the nose is higher with this drivetrain. I don't think that is good from an aerodynamics standpoint.

Tucker (Northbrook,IL) 100 lap race video - 12 minutes of thrills, spills and high speed action taken from the back of my streamliner.

I do not have a Power Tap that works with the streamliner, but I was wearing my heart ratestrap and I do have a pretty good idea of how my wattage correlates to HR now, so looking at the Garmin data for the race I can say I started out at about 250 watts, then backed off to about 180 for about 15 minutes. In the graph you can see when the rubbing started and my heart rate went up, then down, then up again as I tried to figure out what was rubbing and if it was going to make me crash and burn. I was cranking and my speed wasn't increasing so I backed way off. You can see where my speed dropped off more with about 10 minutes to go when the canopy blew off. My HR says I was loafing then.

After taking the drivetrain apart, I could clearly see that the secondary chain and chainring were rubbing on the frame and headset. Also I found that the bolts holding the crossover drive in place were not tight, which allowed it to shift over. Tolerances are very close. I tightened the bolts and added a pop can shim to the BB to space it out a few millimeters.

I will take both the old and the new drivetrain to BM. I will make a spacer to replace the shock to lower the new drivetrain as the BM road is very smooth so the shock should not be needed.

Garrie, can you post a link to your video with my bike going by making nice rubbing noises?


warren Posted - 07/06/2014 : 12:08:11
Today was a major milestone. After getting the front wheel disks done I reinstalled the new drivetrain and rode it up and down the block with the canopy off. The chain wasn't popping off of the hub cog anymore, now it was popping off of the upper chainring. I took off the upper chainring and reshaped the teeth a bit to prevent that, then back out on the road. Success at last!

I felt confident enough for higher speeds, so I rode the 'liner to a faster albeit more heavily trafficked road. I had to ride it up a largish hill to get there, which was tough with the lack of low gearing. A roadie dude passed me on the way up and astutely ignored me. After sitting at a light for a while he took off and I slowly cranked it up. About half a mile down the road I blew by him like he was standing still. I was able to get it up to high speed on the way back (slight down hill) but no speedo so I don't know how fast I was going. I'll have to take it along next time to see if the bike feels right at 36 - 40 MPH.

No chain loss, no major rubbing, and it felt pretty responsive. Better than the old Rohloff drivetrain? Dunno yet. We will see at Northbrook!


alevand Posted - 05/20/2014 : 03:37:48
Its all smoke and mirrors.

Tony Levand
Speedbiker Posted - 05/19/2014 : 16:05:08
I love the smell of burning brake pads in the morning....
Speedbiker Posted - 05/19/2014 : 15:55:00
I love the smell of burning brake pads in the morning....
warren Posted - 05/19/2014 : 11:26:37
At the speeds I go I get some nice burning rubber smell but the rims don't get too hot.
Speedbiker Posted - 05/18/2014 : 20:58:43
warren Posted - 05/17/2014 : 17:50:58
5 working speeds. Rubber melter - you are referring to the rim brake?
Speedbiker Posted - 05/16/2014 : 17:16:15
Pretty sweet. How many working gears? Even has a universal rubber melter screwed to the fork crown!
warren Posted - 05/15/2014 : 11:06:46
I finished the brakes and handlebars, worked the bugs out of the shifting, and finished the secondary chain idler, so it's getting close to done.

Took the drivetrain apart and brazed all the joints that were tack-brazed previously, then sprayed a coat of gloss black onto the frame. It's amazing how much better it looks with a coat of paint (not that anyone will ever see it once it is hidden inside the Cuda-W fairing).
I re-assembled the drivetrain and am pretty close to installing it back in the 'liner for an actual test ride. The chain wants to skip off of the inside of the cog on the wheel hub under adverse conditions.

I ran out of time before the Michigan races, so I put the old drivetrain back in the 'liner and will race it that way.


warren Posted - 04/05/2014 : 17:55:16
Nice days are coming more often now, it must be spring! I had a productive day and had time to rebuilt the derailleur hanger. After trying the drivetrain out in the bike I found that the V1 hanger was shaped badly where my knee moves. It shifts nice. This one goes up high enough to prevent that. Now I'm ready to install the new derailleur pulleys and wash the grease out of the lefty hub to see if can make spin better.

Speedy Posted - 03/27/2014 : 08:33:53
some chatter about bearings ....

warren Posted - 03/26/2014 : 15:19:09
Thanks Garrie, I'll pick up some WD40 and wash that stuff out.
Garrie L Hill Posted - 03/25/2014 : 18:08:42
WD-40 cuts grease well without totally degreasing.

Garrie "carbon based lifeform" Hill
HPRA Co-Dictator of the East
for pics of some of my time and money sucking projects
and videos

warren Posted - 03/25/2014 : 16:43:24
I finished the left side idler, spun up the drivetrin and shifted the gears. It works! It does seems like the whole drivetrain isn't spinning as freely as I would like though. Much of the resistance seemed to be the Profile hub. I took it apart. It has 4 cartridge bearings(!), with plastic shields. I removed the shields and noted that the bearings are packed with grease. Probably I should remove that grease but just removing the plastic shields helped a lot. What kind of solvent removes grease? Something else I noticed was that the idlers on the derailleur don't have bearings. I need to find some replacement derailleur idlers with bearings...

I just bought 'Tacx Ball Bearing Shimano 9/10 Derailleur Pulley Set Shim 9/10' by Tacx from Amazon. Hopefully those will fit the Neos. I needed a set to replace the cracked one in the Shimano XT Derailleur on my Nocom too.
Speedbiker Posted - 03/16/2014 : 22:08:33
Looks great!
warren Posted - 03/16/2014 : 17:33:37
I ended up just using washers to space the chainring properly, and the chainline has clearance in all 5 gears. A couple days of above freezing temperatures allowed me to finish the derailleur hanger, and it is shifting great, except for the high gear which is most outboard. I will need to tweak the derailleur cage a bit to allow the chain to get onto the bottom idler without skipping to fix that. I installed the 13T cog on the Profile left drive cassette and the chainline on the left looks good. I just need to install an idler and some chain keepers to make the drivetrain bulletproof.

Tony - I downloaded that watermark app and research indicated that it is legit (though the free version is somewhat lobotomized).

It was too cold in the garage to do much more than take a picture today...

alevand Posted - 03/16/2014 : 09:32:26
This looks too good to be true, it probably puts it's own mark on it as well.


Tony Levand
warren Posted - 03/16/2014 : 07:17:25
I think that picture was of the first aborted derailleur drivetrain. Yes, I have looked for a watermarking app have not found a decent free one. I'll get a picture soon. I think all the drivetrain clears my body bits but I want to make sure before I get too far.

alevand Posted - 03/16/2014 : 05:52:06
Hi Warren, Could the head tube be made steeper to move the cluster out away from the knees? It might also allow slightly more steering.

ps: you should have a water mark on your pictures, as they are found all over the web.

Tony Levand
warren Posted - 03/15/2014 : 12:16:41
I made good progress today. I finished tweaking the derailleure bracket and installed the chains. It works! Next steps are install the left side chain management and then stick it back in the bike to make sure my knees still clear the mid-drive parts. There is still lots of work to do before it makes its maiden journey but this is the first time I have gotten this far with a super-narrow derailleure based drivetrain without deciding that it was junk.


Speedbiker Posted - 01/31/2014 : 17:38:58
Get it working, we have some big tracks to race on this summer.

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