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warren Posted - 10/05/2010 : 20:00:56
I'm working on this thing again. Hopefully it will be done and tweaked for BM 2011.


25   L A T E S T    R E P L I E S    (Newest First)
warren Posted - 04/05/2014 : 17:55:16
Nice days are coming more often now, it must be spring! I had a productive day and had time to rebuilt the derailleur hanger. After trying the drivetrain out in the bike I found that the V1 hanger was shaped badly where my knee moves. It shifts nice. This one goes up high enough to prevent that. Now I'm ready to install the new derailleur pulleys and wash the grease out of the lefty hub to see if can make spin better.

Speedy Posted - 03/27/2014 : 08:33:53
some chatter about bearings ....

warren Posted - 03/26/2014 : 15:19:09
Thanks Garrie, I'll pick up some WD40 and wash that stuff out.
Garrie L Hill Posted - 03/25/2014 : 18:08:42
WD-40 cuts grease well without totally degreasing.

Garrie "carbon based lifeform" Hill
HPRA Co-Dictator of the East
for pics of some of my time and money sucking projects
and videos

warren Posted - 03/25/2014 : 16:43:24
I finished the left side idler, spun up the drivetrin and shifted the gears. It works! It does seems like the whole drivetrain isn't spinning as freely as I would like though. Much of the resistance seemed to be the Profile hub. I took it apart. It has 4 cartridge bearings(!), with plastic shields. I removed the shields and noted that the bearings are packed with grease. Probably I should remove that grease but just removing the plastic shields helped a lot. What kind of solvent removes grease? Something else I noticed was that the idlers on the derailleur don't have bearings. I need to find some replacement derailleur idlers with bearings...

I just bought 'Tacx Ball Bearing Shimano 9/10 Derailleur Pulley Set Shim 9/10' by Tacx from Amazon. Hopefully those will fit the Neos. I needed a set to replace the cracked one in the Shimano XT Derailleur on my Nocom too.
Speedbiker Posted - 03/16/2014 : 22:08:33
Looks great!
warren Posted - 03/16/2014 : 17:33:37
I ended up just using washers to space the chainring properly, and the chainline has clearance in all 5 gears. A couple days of above freezing temperatures allowed me to finish the derailleur hanger, and it is shifting great, except for the high gear which is most outboard. I will need to tweak the derailleur cage a bit to allow the chain to get onto the bottom idler without skipping to fix that. I installed the 13T cog on the Profile left drive cassette and the chainline on the left looks good. I just need to install an idler and some chain keepers to make the drivetrain bulletproof.

Tony - I downloaded that watermark app and research indicated that it is legit (though the free version is somewhat lobotomized).

It was too cold in the garage to do much more than take a picture today...

alevand Posted - 03/16/2014 : 09:32:26
This looks too good to be true, it probably puts it's own mark on it as well.


Tony Levand
warren Posted - 03/16/2014 : 07:17:25
I think that picture was of the first aborted derailleur drivetrain. Yes, I have looked for a watermarking app have not found a decent free one. I'll get a picture soon. I think all the drivetrain clears my body bits but I want to make sure before I get too far.

alevand Posted - 03/16/2014 : 05:52:06
Hi Warren, Could the head tube be made steeper to move the cluster out away from the knees? It might also allow slightly more steering.

ps: you should have a water mark on your pictures, as they are found all over the web.

Tony Levand
warren Posted - 03/15/2014 : 12:16:41
I made good progress today. I finished tweaking the derailleure bracket and installed the chains. It works! Next steps are install the left side chain management and then stick it back in the bike to make sure my knees still clear the mid-drive parts. There is still lots of work to do before it makes its maiden journey but this is the first time I have gotten this far with a super-narrow derailleure based drivetrain without deciding that it was junk.


Speedbiker Posted - 01/31/2014 : 17:38:58
Get it working, we have some big tracks to race on this summer.
warren Posted - 01/31/2014 : 13:27:50
Here's what I've got so far:

I built a bracket to clamp the crossover bearings, and after many fits and starts and keepers and making of small pieces of metal out of large ones, it's tacked in place in the right place and is straight.
No 39T chainring to be found in the box-o-chainrings, but I found a 36T chainring and see now I need different spider bolt spacers to prevent the chain from catching on the crank arm.

It's supposed to be unfit for man or beast in the out-of-doors tomorrow, so hopefully I'll be able to get out into the garage to make some spiffy spider spacers and the derailleur hanger.

warren Posted - 01/04/2014 : 15:30:39
My heel clears the front axle by an inch or two.
alevand Posted - 01/04/2014 : 14:43:01
Warren, How far is your foot from the front axle?

Tony Levand
Dreamer Posted - 01/04/2014 : 13:24:08
Usually the freewheel sprockets are not interchangeable between manufacturers.

I also have an assortment of 5, 6, & 7 speed threaded hubs. Even the 5 speeds have 3 different sizes of sprockets on each hub which further limits the combinations of possible gear ratios.
alevand Posted - 01/04/2014 : 12:25:19
I have some old clusters and freewheels in the garage. Usually the freewheel sprockets are not interchangeable between manufacturers. Ive got a couple a 7,6 and 5 speed threaded freewheels. The 7 speed one was cheap on line.


Tony Levand
warren Posted - 01/03/2014 : 17:59:43
Yeah good eyes Tony. This cluster HAD a big gear for starting but I cut it off because it rubbed on the frame. What I really need is an old freewheel (threaded) hub that I can put my own gears onto. I have lots of gears but need a freewheel. I figured I could always change out the hub later...
alevand Posted - 01/03/2014 : 16:59:21
Those ratios look close, wouldn't you want first geared low for starting out, like a 28 tooth?

Tony Levand
warren Posted - 01/03/2014 : 11:15:52
2 inches BB width, the same as I use on the cranks in the Cuda-W.
Jackrabbit Jimmy Posted - 01/03/2014 : 09:55:44
Wow that looks like a pretty narrow BB.

Jackrabbit Jimmy
warren Posted - 01/03/2014 : 08:37:46
Hi Tony,

Yes, it's a threaded cassette. The freewheel hub has a Wianecki freewheel to square taper adaptor mounted in it.

I'm working on brazing up the brackets to attach the crossover drive. Adding the clamps of course warped the tube, hopefully the bearings will not bind when I clamp it down. I put the new subframe back in the 'liner again to check clearances to my legs and I think it will work well mounted right to the top of the frame tube just in front of the head tube. A small miracle.

alevand Posted - 01/03/2014 : 06:37:37
Hi Warren,
Is that a threaded cassette? You could take an old steel threaded hub, cut it and and braze or weld it to the square taper arm, after the arm is cut off. I assume the cassette is on the right side and 39 tooth is on the left. I have an old steel threaded hub in in my garage, Schwinn approved. Would it have been easier and lighter to just use a flip/flop hub, narrow it, use tread locker on the left side and weld or rivet the 39 tooth to a small threaded sprocket? The hub can be cut so the flanges are flat and can be pop riveted together through the spoke holes. I think the square tapper is over built, made for jumping on the pedals.

Tony Levand
warren Posted - 12/31/2013 : 11:43:10
Here I am a year later and I have done very little with the new drivetrain. I have been racing the 'liner with the old drivetrain which has been working well.

Recently I have begun working on it again. One issue was that because of the fork rake the chain drive would rub on the back of the fork. Also the wheel was too far forward in the fairing's wheel slot. To fix that I took the rake out of the fork by heating the fork with the torch and bending it.

I think I have critical mass on the parts for the crossover drivetrain. The last part of the puzzle was the left side drive gear, which needed to attach to the narrow 2" square taper BB. I cut the arm off of an old 39T steel BMX crank. A bit heavy but it should work well. The drivetrain calculator says I need a 13T cog on the hub to replace the 10T cog. Profile wants big $$$ for these parts.

Latest gearing: 39T chainring -> 14T gear on crank side of intermediary drive -> 39T on hub side of intermediary drive -> 13T on lefty BMX hub at 90RPM cranks = 40 MPH.


Interestingly, with this gearing the number of teeth on the front chainring corresponds almost exactly to the bike speed at 90 RPM.

Aure Posted - 12/30/2012 : 23:54:28
Funny that this modern art is at the moment near to my house !
Promise I will take a picture of it with me beside :D

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